THE VILLAGE OF CLAY

Molagoda, a village 24 miles from The Flame Tree Estate and Hotel and close to Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage, is where most Sri Lankans come to buy earthenware of all sorts – pots of every possible size, vases, urns, bowls, stands, jugs and goblets, cutwork lampshades, birdbaths, garden ornaments and painted animals.

Other villages specialise in pottery, but none so old as this one, which dates back to before the time of the Kandyan kings.

Almost all the families in the village are engaged in making things from clay - the still living remnants of the old feudal "rajakariya" system which dominated the island until 1832.

By means of this system, the king granted subjects land in exchange for services - anything from road or reservoir making to still more specific roles – like this: clay making. The feudal arrangement meant that whole families evolved into skilled artisans, expert at their particular craft. When the British abolished the system, many of the craft folk continued their work, as they have here at Molagoda.

Over two-thirds of Sri Lanka still use clay pots of one sort or another for specific types of cooking, and this is what was first made here. Then, several decades ago, the potters turned themselves into a co-operative. Business boomed – and the ten families grew to over 50 now here today.

Their raw clay is sourced from the surrounding area, especially Dewalegama, and soaked for several hours to soften. Smaller pieces are then hammered with iron, and the soft lumps are then softened with water and kneaded. A little sand is added before the clay finds itself on the potter’s wheel being spun by hand. More elaborate pieces are made using plaster of Paris moulds. The items are then fired for 14 hours in small brick-and-clay kilns.